|
|
Member
Posts: 9
| Greetings, I recently bought a White 2006 MCS w/ black bonnet stripes with 30K on it, and I'm loving it. I'm hoping that I can learn a lot from everyone in the club regarding the Mini in general, as well as DIY maintenance/repair and such. If anyone is planning to work on their mini, I'd love to come by and watch/help/learn!
I simply googled Mini clubs in Northern California and it brought me here. I hope to meet many of you in the near future! |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 373
 
Location: Lincoln, CA | Welcome to the club,hope to see you in the future at one of our events.Q |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3013
 
Location: Healdsburg, CA | Hi Todd, Welcome to the REME MegaBBS. If you want full access to the forums, please sign up for membership online (its free to do so) at http://redwoodempiremini.com/memberapp.asp. i look forward at seeing you at upcoming events. |
|
| |
|
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 331
Location: Petaluma | Hi Todd,
and
Welcome!
we have a lot of activities from somoma to sac and then some.
also our forums are a great place to ask questions you may have about your MINI.
hope to see you soon
boxcars |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 89
Location: Grass Valley | Hi Todd
Welcome to the club. Lots of things to learn about the car, inside and out. Read through your owners manual and discover all the features of your ride. If you don't know it's history, you can still get an idea of what the car was ordered with. It may have features you aren't aware of yet. Keep in mind that most cars were ordered by the original owner and they had hundreds of options to choose from. In 2006 there were more than 3 dozen wheel choices alone. The interior had over 300 combinations available, as well as nearly as many exterior options. You may never see another car exactly as yours is equipped! That's what they refer to as the "younique" factor. If you can find a 2006 sales brochure, it will show everything available for that year. It should be fun to discover unique things about your new car. Many of us MINI owners modify our cars, and you can get an idea of what they did by reading the signature at the bottom of each post. Don't forget to add your signature so we all know what you have as well. Many of us can help with maintenance how to's and tips. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 9
| Thanks everyone -- Rich, thanks for the tips on the car. I've been reading through the owners manual -- I think I have most everything down but I'm sure I'll uncover a thing or two! Help with maintenance how to's would be awesome! I plan on doing a few customizations to my car, but not a lot. Haven't decided if I want to do the pulley and CAI yet or just leave all that alone. I want to get some aftermarket wheels though, just to start with. I also need to fix a few paint chips in the hood. Anyone know somebody good who can do that around here? |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 89
Location: Grass Valley | Check elsewhere in the forum. I saw that someone had some body work done in your area. Also important to note, BMW recommends 15000 miles between oil changes. Your on-board computer will remind you of this. However, most of us would never consider that mileage duration, even with the recommended synthetic oil. I will go no more than 5000 miles, or after each track day, which ever comes first. Your supercharged car is very responsive to even minor changes. Every change will result in a power increase, no mater how much or little you spend. Ask around, and carefully plan your changes. Let common sense and your budget be your guide. We all seem to want to go faster, but the lesson learned at the track proves that the car is much more capable than most drivers. Some enthusiasts prefer to invest in track time rather than dump money into a car that is already a thoroughbred right off the showroom floor. That being said, some of our personal priorities have been brakes before pulleys. Logical, but like I said, we seem to all want to go FASTER. You won't, frankly. BMW has their speed governors pre-set to 138mph. That seems to be a myth that many owners challenge. Just pull up You Tube to see. You can however increase your horsepower, therefore making the car QUICKER. That combined with good brakes will make your lap times faster. Again, keep in mind that your stock brakes are very good. BMW has always been famous for their excellent brakes. Upgrading the pads is sufficient when the time comes. All in all, do your homework first. Many of us are willing to share as much info as you can handle. It's all about enjoying your car, and the bond with a bunch of nuts like us with a common interest.
Be careful with wheel choices - fit and weight considerations. Talk to other members and professionals like Tire Rack and America's Tire Store. Look for links through our web site for discounts. Your wheels are hub-centric, meaning the hub is the critical fit concern. Generic choices or adapting is not recommended. Some wheels are BMW exclusive, others are a lucky fit. Have you had a chance to study the signature line on each forum post? See what others are running, and go from there. Most of all - Enjoy. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: PO Box 750 Shasta, CA 96087 | Hey Todd,
Rich is right on with his recommendations. I find that the more confidence I have that my brakes will stop me, the more comfortable I get with driving hard. Although the stock brakes are good, on a track day or "spirited" driving on some twisty mountain roads can heat up those brakes. So brakes are on my list of priority upgrades.
Another thing, make only one upgrade at a time and see what results you get. If you try to do too much at one time you may not know which mod/upgrades helped or hurt.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 9
| Hey guys -- thanks again for all the info, you make some good points. I did know about the 15K oil change, but had planned on doing it every 6K, no way I'd go 15K without an oil change, even if that's what they say.
I have no desire to go FASTER, but QUICKER would be nice. That said, the car is pretty quick as-is, and I don't want to do anything to it that would compromise the engine life or integrity, etc. I'm into performance AND practicality. However, I think a few mods probably wouldn't hurt. Does a pulley and exhaust/CIA decrease engine life? Does it mess with the stock air/fuel ratio?
I do like the idea of doing brakes first, actually. I drive up and down very hilly, twisty roads every single day on my way to/from work. I live up on Howell Mountain and have to drive through the valley to work, up another twisty, windy hill. I think brakes make sense -- I am aware of BMWs great rep for brakes. I'll have to look around and see what rotors, calipers and pads people like to use...and I'll do my homework on the wheels too.
Opinions on brakes?
I'll start looking through signature lines and do some research... |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: PO Box 750 Shasta, CA 96087 | Look below under threads "Performance Mods". Carbotech is one of our club advisors and offers brakes. Try Mike
jr@ctbrakes.com
Also if we keep talking about performance Mods maybe we should move part of this discussion down there. |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 89
Location: Grass Valley | Don't forget to spend another $100 on stainless brake lines to replace the rubber flex lines... It takes the spongy feel out of the brake pedal. You could also ponder the JCW brake upgrade. The rotors on front are up sized to 294mm, with much larger calipers, pistons and pads. Rear brakes remain stock, but the kit includes new high performance pads. I made the switch a while back, and upgraded front and rear rotors with DBA drilled and slotted. Actually, they aren't drilled at all. They are cast holes, which is better than drilling. Drilled rotors tend to crack under extreme braking. More to ponder... |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: PO Box 750 Shasta, CA 96087 | Brembos or Wilwoods are good and very popular on Minis. Make sure you check what wheels will fit them. You may need spacers. Ask a lot of questions before you order. Nothing worse than getting the brakes, installing them, and then find your wheels won't fit over them. Depending on how you drive, I would suggest a medium grade pad. Not a "track" pad. You want something that is long lasting, good on heat, don't squeek, and don't leave all that black dust. I have had great sucess with my Brembos, but others have been happy with Wilwoods as well. check out this thread below: http://www.redwoodempiremini.com/mbbs2/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=1448&posts=7&start=1 |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3013
Location: Healdsburg, CA | I guess I am going to be the lone dissenter... I am one that would first change oil every 12 months or 4000 miles (whichever comes first). I also put greater importance on performance and suspension mods and less on the brakes (although I agree they are important). I have taken my car on the track twice and drive hard when with the group, but have just 50k miles on my 2003 MCS. It is still on it's original brakes and rotors, although they should be replaced before the next track day. There is nothing wrong with stock brakes and they work quite well, comparable to the performance of the stock engine. For me, enjoyment was the change in the sound and performance of the engine and handling was first and foremost, figuring I would fully upgrade the braking system when finally needed. Unfortunately I need them now after 3+ years of a nasty recession, so I will put off the next track day until I can afford new brakes. Do what feels right for you... nothing is wrong. Many have done their mods totally for bling, and that's okay too. If you want some ideas on mods, visit the members mod page to see what others have done: http://www.redwoodempiremini.com/mbbs2/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=131&posts=18#M15996 |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: PO Box 750 Shasta, CA 96087 | Todd & Peter,
First I agree with changing oil and service. Although BMW does say you can drive "almost" forever before changing oil, I am from the old school and prefer to change oil & service more regularly.
The best factor in performance driving is the talent, skill, ability and confidence of the driver. Before spending any money on mods, I would recommend track days. Hooked on Driving, Phil Wicks, NASA, SCCA, and other schools, along with Mini Thunder will do more for the performance of you car than any mod. I have seen some very talented drivers, driving stone stock Minis, do wonders.
For me, having brakes that I can count on is the best upgrade. Perhaps racing old MG Midgets in SCCA with poor brakes had an affect on me. During my early years racing my MG I had many "issues" with brakes. Only after I installed "Good" brakes was I able to have the confidence to drive deep into a turn, knowing I could stop before crashing into the wall.
Our MINIs are equipped with good brakes, yet I have seen some of our members overheat them while on spirited drives on twisty mountain roads.
Changing the pulleys will not add top speed or RPM, it will give you quicker accelleration. Ramping up the supercharger will produce more air, quicker, thus allowing the engine to reach the RPM quicker. I don't think that this will result in any remature wear.
The CAI (Cold Air Intake) will allow cooler air to enter. Cooler air is more dense with oxygen and therefore allows more fuel to burn when mixed. More air & more fuel = more HP. The concept here is to bring in air that is not "sitting" under the bonnet being warmed by the engine heat, but to bring in cool ambient air from outside.
Another mod that does help is the intercooler. This device cools the intake air before it enters the supercharger. The stock Mini intercooler on R53's is set directly above the engine and as the air comes in through the scoop then travels directly downward through the intercooler but is blocked by the engine itself. Other designs, such as the M7 intercooler changes the flow so that the air travels horizontally and allows the air to pass through unobstructed. This allows more cooling air, thus cooler intake air, thus more dense air, thus more O2, thus the more HP 
in my humble opinion, basically the MINI (MCS or MC) is capable of performance at a level much higher than the "average" street driver. So the best upgrade is "driver ability". Once you feel that you are driving your Mini to the "max", then its time to look for performance upgrade. |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 710
Location: Sacramento, CA | Hi Todd! Welcome on board. Have you checked the calendar yet? Whatcha gonna do first?
|
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 830
Location: Novato, California | Hi Todd!! Welcome to REME...It is a great group of friends...Smokey.. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 9
| Hey guys, wow lots of great info to digest. My initial thoughts are that I want to upgrade the brakes, do a pulley upgrade to 15%, and do a cold air intake, cold plugs, new wires and a coil. I also think good sway bars would be nice and the intercooler sounds good. I don't want to go crazy here and make it a race car, but I'd like to make it quicker and still retain a good degree of reliability and MPG -- it is my daily driver, though I do have a backup.
I think brakes and a pulley will be my first mods...
I appreciate the suggestion to attend track days. That's a good idea. Norm, cool to hear that you used to race MGs. I had a '71 MG Midget, and I also actually had a '78 Mini RHD from New Zealand about 5 years ago. I restored it and it was an awesome car - I have some pictures. 49 MPG, 998cc. I regret selling it -- did so because I moved 1800 miles and didn't want to deal with towing it when I already had another car to tow. Well, now I have a newer mini at least!
I'm putting some new tires on the back on Saturday -- got the Continental ExtremeContact DWS. Supposedly they're pretty good. According to the tire guy I got the last 2 in the area -- they are on back order nationwide, so he says.
Do you all run on standard tires or run flats? I have run flats on the front right now but I'm thinking about changing them out. I got a tire repair kit (plugs), an air compressor and a can of fix a flat (if necessary -- don't want to ruin the sensors).
Thanks again everyone, this is the most helpful Mini forum I've yet been to! Even better that everyone is local! |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3013
Location: Healdsburg, CA | If you want to save a little time in labor, your SC pulley and air intake should be done at the same time and is the traditional first performance mod for most '02-'06 MCS owners (and has the most significant performance gains for the $$$ invested). The second thing I would do is get rid of the run flats and replace the stock shocks... then possibly migrate to brakes unless they are in need of replacement anyway, in which case I would move them to the top of the list. |
|
| |
|
Member
Posts: 9
| Anyone here do these mods themselves? At least the pulley and cold air intake? |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3013
Location: Healdsburg, CA | The air intake should be relatively easy, the pulley much harder. Randy Webb (Webb Motorsports near Denver) did mine at the same time in January, '04 at a "Pulley Party" in Danville. It took him only about 30-45 minutes to do both, but he had also done about 1000 similar installs before mine. The pulley requires a lot of work and requires a pulley puller (and likely a half a day if you do it yourself). He will loan his out if you buy the pulley from him. I would look at his DIY pages to see if it is something you want to tackle. I am considering doing my own brakes in the late fall or early winter (the last time I did a brake job was on my 1947 Ford coupe when in High School)... replacing the whole works with something that won't break me. I look forward to following your decision process for the braking system selection. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3013
Location: Healdsburg, CA | If you look down my long list of performance upgrades, they have all improved my mileage (when traveling just below 3000 rpm) on the freeway. I got over 36 mpg to and from Las Vegas one year when keeping the speed around 70 mph. My car is suppose to get 32 mpg freeway, so potentially improved air does increase mileage, that is if you aren't tempted to have fun while driving... then mileage gets lousy quickly.. |
|
| |
|
Regular
Posts: 89
Location: Grass Valley | Hi Todd
The cold air intake is an easy DIY for almost any aftermarket or factory (JCW or DINAN) type. It also will familiarize you with all the weird little thingies under the bonnet. Pulleys are not difficult for the average shade tree mechanic, but tricky to do alone. Sometimes clubs do "Pulley Parties" and an experienced DIYer will help others perform the task and share tools, etc... These events are almost a thing of the past now, because our R53's are getting up in age. As you know, the supercharged cars have been replaced by turbos. If you have a good mechanic (talk to members in your area) it is only a minor labor charge to do that job. I think both pulleys can be done in about 1.5 hrs. so maybe just a couple hundred bucks. Here is a thought: Our R53's have a habit of leaking upper motor mounts. Inspect to see if any of that black yuck is leaking out (I am on my 3rd) If so, pick up another factory mount (or wait a short while until BSH puts out a replacement) then do both pulleys at that time. That would be a real labor saver, because that mount has to be unbolted to expose the supercharger pulley. You will need that mount eventually, and I highly recommend the BSH unit when it finally hits the market. It will not be hydraulic like the factory unit.
A complete cat-back exhaust system can be installed by you, if you can get the car up on at least one side. I removed my original (one piece) in minutes, and had the new single exhaust unit installed in under an hour. Brakes are a piece of cake on any modern car, especially BMW's. You need a piston rotating tool for the rear e-brake ($4) and a TORX set. Be extra careful handling the sensors, they are fragile. If the warning light comes on, they need to be replaced. I agree with most other owners regarding tires. Those run-flat tires are harsh. You can do much better for much less, and pick up a can of flat repair to put in the boot. As you get to know your car, you will see just how easy most maintenance and repairs are, especially with all the club support and discounts from vendors. For oil changes you only need a shallow 34mm socket for the canister. Buy only a BMW/MINI (made by MANN) or MANN HU816 filter(NAPA) and use Castrol or Mobil1 synthetic oil.
Your first 30k miles should be pretty much trouble free, except maybe brakes and tires. At about 60k, you should be looking into lower front control arm bushings, belt replacement (unless you do pulleys now) coolant replacement, motor mount, (previously mentioned), supercharger service, and cabin filter.
Your supercharger is one of the pricier items under the bonnet. Contrary to hearsay and even published articles, the supercharger IS servicable. Have the special lubricant changed every 30k at least. Your mechanic should have the service bulletins. If not, find another mechanic. It only costs about $60-$80 in maintainence, but replacement runs almost 2grand. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3013
Location: Healdsburg, CA | Good info Rich! |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: PO Box 750 Shasta, CA 96087 | When you go to replace your lower front control arm bushings, try the Alta Performance Solid bushings. WOW what an improvement. |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 2312
Location: PO Box 750 Shasta, CA 96087 | Cold Air Intake is easy & simple. The pulley require some special tools and knowledge. Pulley parties or a good local mechanic can take care of this. Be sure he has done them before. |
|
| |
Hi from Napa Valley
